PAPAMOA SHE’S A GOER

Can you see this wave? It’s massive. And check out the offshore spray. Imagine getting that in the eye on takeoff. I wish there was someone out there to give this monster a bit of scale. But no-one is that stupid. This was taken around middle of the day, after the wind had got up and turned what was a heaving, clean swell into a bit of a chaosfest. Click on the picture above to get a better look, and while you are there check out the shadow on the lip and imagine yourself tucked in there, in a race to make it out alive.